Timeline & History of Wānaka

This land has a rich history.

5 million years ago earth’s movements established the main elements of today’s landscape, such as the schist that forms the Southern Alps. During the ice age glaciers carved deep U-shaped valleys that are distinctive to this region. Glaciers covered the region and are what today’s landscapes have been formed by.

From the time of Waitaha arrival who journeyed on the Uruao waka to be the first people of Te Waipounamu / South Island, Kāi Tahu Whānui have lived off the land, from the land, with the land and across the land. Forging deep connections to whenua and environment.

Next came the early European explorers like Nathaniel Chalmers, and the prospectors who followed drawn by the allure of gold, to the people of today who nurture a deep love for this unique place.

Behind this sits a host of characters and an abundance of stories. It is with respect to the past and the people before us that we seek to understand as much as possible to become better custodians of this place.

Geological changes have had a significant influence on the formation of waterways and the land in this region. The present valleys of the area were carved by glaciers. There were various sequences of glacial and warmer periods, with the last glacial maximum occurring around 15,000 years ago. Rock debris (till) carried by these glaciers was deposited when they melted, and this material now dams all of the large southern lakes. This process resulted in a complex mixture of sorted alluvial deposits and mixed glacial materials in the plains in the southern part of the Upper Clutha, most notably south of Hāwea.

The schist rocks which dominate the geology of the Central Otago and Upper Clutha areas were deposited around 130-250 million years ago. The gold which defined much of the early European history of the area was deposited from hot water solutions in similar conditions over the last 140 million years.

Geological changes have also had a significant influence on waterways in the region, much of the present Upper Clutha catchment once flowed south to the Kawarau via the Cardrona and Motatapu valley, before uplift in and near the Crown range cut off this flow path.

The town of Wānaka is situated at the southern end of Lake Wānaka on one of the till dams and surrounded by mountains. To the southwest is the Crown Range and town of Queenstown; to the north the Haast Pass cuts through the Southern Alps near Makarora. Very close to Lake Wānaka is Lake Hāwea, in a parallel glacial valley, which has a recently developed settlement of about 1,500 people.

To the south and north of the town lies more of the Southern Alps and the Matukituki and Makarora River valleys which gives access to the Mount Aspiring National Park, part of Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area. This is a mixture of native bush and alpine landscapes, with some glaciers. The catchment boundaries in this area are defined by large peaks, most notably Mt Aspiring/Tititea (3,033 m).

Wānaka and Hāwea are iconic lakes of cultural and statutory significance to Kāi Tahu. The lakes feature in the Waitaha iwi oral tradition of “Kā Puna Wai Karikari o Rākaihautū” which tells how the great lakes of Te Wai Pounamu (the South Island) were dug by the tūpuna (ancestor) Rākaihautū with his famous kō (Polynesian digging tool). Rākaihautū was the captain of the waka (ocean canoe), Uruao, which brought the Waitaha people to New Zealand on an early discovery expedition. It is Rākaihautū and the Waitaha people who lit the first fires of occupation within Te Wai Pounamu.

Around Lake Wānaka were a number of pā (strongholds), kāika (settlements) and nohoaka (camp sites). The biggest known settlement in the area was a Kāi Tahu pā known as Take Kārara which was located in present day Roys Bay. Other local settlements included Ōrau which was on the banks of the Cardrona River, Toka Karoro towards Beacon Point and Okai Tū situated where the Clutha and Hāwea Rivers meet. A highly significant site for spiritual and traditional reasons was Manuhaea, located below The Neck, the narrow isthmus between lakes Wānaka and Hāwea.

The name “Wānaka” is a South Island variant of the word “wānanga” which refers to ancient schools of learning. In these schools Kāi Tahu tohuka (men of learning) would be taught whakapapa (genealogies) which stretched back to over a hundred generations and karakia (incantations) for innumerable situations. All of this learning they would be required to commit to memory.

Trails (ara tawhito) in the area included: the Clutha/Mata-au, used to transport pounamu and mahika kai (natural and cultural resources) back to the coast; the Waitaki River, Ōmakō/Lindis Pass which connected the Waitaki with lakes Wānaka and Hāwea; the Matāura River, noted for its indigenous fishery; and Haast Pass/Tiori Patea.

The Mātakitaki River provided an alternative route to the treasured pounamu resources of Te Tai Poutini/the West Coast. The Ōrau (Cardrona River) and the Kawarau were also part of this interconnected network of trails. At Whakatipu-wai-Māori (Lake Wakatipu) a network of villages lay along the routes to access pounamu at Te Koroka, located beyond the head of the lake. Countless generations transported it back to coastal settlements in Otago and Southland on waka and mōkihi for fashioning into tools, ornaments and weapons.

Tititea was located on the south side of the Kawarau River, near Ōterotu. Whakatipu-Wai-Māori is an important source of freshwater, the lake being fed by hukawai (melt waters). These are waters
with the highest level of purity and were accorded traditional classifications by Kāi Tahu that recognised this value. These Tapu (sacred) waters sustain many ecosystems important to Kāi Tahu.

All elements of the natural environment possess a mauri, a life force, and all forms of life are related. The mauri of whenua and wai taoka, lands and waterbodies, represent the essence that binds the physical and spiritual elements of all things together, generating and upholding all life. Mauri is therefore a critical element of the spiritual relationship of Kāi Tahu Whānui with the whenua, waterbodies and resources of the region.

Kāi Tahu understand climate change through this paradigm of connectedness and relationship with the environment. The tūpuna (ancestors) had considerable knowledge of whakapapa, the traditional trails, tauraka waka, places for gathering kai and other taoka, and tīkaka for the proper and sustainable utilisation of resources of the area. All of these values remain important to Kāi Tahu today.

A gold prospector called Charles Cameron is believed to be the first European to find the pass. He crossed over in January 1863, burying his powder flask to the west of the pass. Close behind him came Julius von Haast, who named the pass after himself and claimed to be the first European to have travelled through it, however the discovery of Cameron’s flask discredited this claim. It took Julius von Haast and his party over four weeks to complete the journey, after being shown the start of the trail by Maori.

A Maori chieftain named Reko guided the area’s first European visitor, Nathaniel Chalmers, in 1853. Another Maori chief, Te Huruhuru, sketched a simple map of the region at this time, which remains today.

European settlement began in the Upper Clutha River Valley in the 1850s, with the establishment of sheep stations by runholders. The first station was at Albert Town, the only place where settlers could ford the Clutha River. The world’s first sheepdog trials were reportedly held in Wānaka in 1867.

The first gold rush started in 1863 with the discovery of gold in the Lindis River and Cardrona Valley and by 1870 Cardrona was the region’s largest town with a permanent population of 400 people. The population of Wānaka wouldn’t reach 400 until nearly one hundred years later in 1960.

The present site of Wānaka was first surveyed in 1863, and settlement increased in Pembroke (the old name for Wānaka) during the 1870s because of timber milling in the Matukituki and Makarora Valleys and the use of Lake Wānaka for transport.

Wānaka is believed to be named from the word Wānaka which is a South Island form of wānanga, meaning sacred knowledge or a place of learning. Residents changed the named from Pembroke to Wānaka in 1940.

Tourism in the town began in 1867 with the opening of the first hotel, by Theodore Russell and in 1883 the Theodore, a paddle steamer, offered cruises for tourists on the lake.

Mt Aspiring was first climbed by Major Bernard Head in 1909. Mt Aspiring National Park was gazetted in 1964 and then became part of the Te Wahipounamu – South West New Zealand World Heritage site in 1990.

The Haast Pass Highway was finally completed in 1965, after 30 years of work, linking the West Coast and Otago but wouldn’t be completely sealed for another 30 years.

Treble Cone Ski Area opened in 1968 and in 1978 the Cardrona Alpine Resort also opened.

Wānaka proved a very popular tourist destination because of its borderline continental climate and easy access to snow and water.

The following recording is based on the booklet “The Upper Clutha 150 Years’ published by the Upper Clutha Historical Records Society. Narrated by Peter Hayden and produced by LWT.

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Below is a compelling snapshot of our region’s history. Adapted from the Upper Clutha Historical Record Society timeline, with assistance from the QLDC and Lakes District Museum.

1300 – 1450

Inland moa hunting and rock art sites established in Central Otago and Waitaki Valley.

1350

Tamatea-Ariki-Nui passed through Upper Clutha.

1350 – 1400

Extensive fowling, fishing, and production of ti (Cabbage Tree) sugar, from seasonally occupied hamlets in southern South Island. Preservation and exchange of goods.

1650 – 1800

Kāti Māmoe ceded Kāikoura to Kāti Kuri.

1769

Captain James Cook reached New Zealand at Tūranga (Gisborne).

1790

Rokopai (truce) negotiated between Kāti Māmoe and Kāi Tahu in South Otago, cemented with high-ranking arranged marriages.

1836

Te Pūoho led a war party along the West Coast and through Haast Pass and Wānaka, a Kāi Tahu base was captured.

1840

Treaty of Waitangi / Te Tiriti o Waitangi was signed by Captain Hobson on behalf of Britain claiming sovereignty over North Island. Kāi Tahu rakatira signed a copy of Te Tiriti o Waitangi at Akaroa, Ōtākou and Ruapuke Island

Photo: Original handwritten Treaty of Waitangi document

1844

First maps of Wānaka & Hāwea drawn by Ngāi Tahu Chief Huruhuru (Kāi Tahu rakatira Te Huruhuru).

Photo: By the southern Ngāi Tahu leader Te Huruhuru

1853

Nathaniel Chalmers, first documented European to visit the Upper Clutha District guided by Chief Reko & Kaikoura.

1857

J.T. Thomson surveyed the Upper Clutha and named Mt Aspiring, Mt Pisa, Cardrona River & Luggate Creek from Grandview Range.

Photo: Painting of Lake Wānaka by John T Thomson

1858

Waste Lands Act 1858

Photo: Lake Wānaka

1858

Government opened up the Upper Clutha for large pastoral run leases to be applied for – fee £20.

1859

First detailed survey of Upper Clutha by Edward Jollie and William Young.

1860

Henry Norman, manager of Roy’s Station & his wife Mary Ann Norman, were probably the first European family to settle in the Upper Clutha.

Black and white mining photo from Cardrona mine

1862

Gold discovered in Cardrona & Bendigo. James McKerrow surveyed the Upper Clutha & produced first accurate map and report.

Photo: Andrew Torrie’s mine

1862

Oswald and Jane McCallum, an Upper Clutha settler family, gave birth to the first daughter in the region on 7th June in 1862.

1863

Haast Pass discovered.

Charles Cameron, first European to traverse Haast Pass followed 1 month later by Julius von Haast. John Connell surveyed and named towns now known as Bendigo, Lake Hāwea, Albert Town & Wānaka.

1865

Henry Norman moved his hotel, store and the punt business to the southern bank of the Clutha River

Photo: The original southern Albert Town punt

1867

Cardrona Hotel was established, however it was called the Empire Hotel. Believed to be set up in 1867 by George and Rebecca Bond. The name “Cardrona Hotel” only became official in 1926.

Photo: Cardrona Hotel

1867

World’s First Dog Trials: On 18 April the World’s first recorded sheep dog trials were held at Dogmatch Flat (Hillend Station).

Photo: Collie Dog trials circa 1990’s

1867

Photo: Dog trials post 1890 at Pembroke

1867

Henry Hill owned a sawmill at the top of Lake Hāwea. Probably the first sawmill on the shores of Lake Hāwea.

Photo: Flax Mill at head of Lake Wānaka

1867

Four Fallow deer released by John McLean on Morven Station.

In 1871 Red deer yearlings we’re released near Lake Hāwea.

1868

First Hotel in Pembroke built: Wanaka Hotel built and run by Theodore Russell & Charles Hedditch.

Photo: The original Wanaka Hotel

Black and white photo of two ships on lake wanaka

1868

Alfred Pinn and George Hassing built the “Eureka”: A 40 ton sailing ship built on Pidgeon Island (Mou Waho).

Photo: The best known boats on the Lake, both built by Asher Smith… (‘Theodore’ and the ‘Makarora’). A New Year’s Day sailing up the lake in 1903.

Black and white photos of the first luggage school

1868

First school in the district opened at Albert Town in 1868/9 called Wanaka School. Closed in 1876 but reopened in 1878.

Photo: The first Luggate School

1874

The Urquhart Family, well known Hāwea Flat residents, originally settled near to where the Dingle Creek entered Lake Hāwea.

1876

Rabbits first reported as a pest in Manuheurikia. It was further reported on in 1879 as an infestation problem for farmers.

1878

The ‘Great Flood’ of lakes & rivers in Upper Clutha – Lake Wānaka level at 281.8m. Flooded almost every settlement.

Photo: Second highest floods in 1999 on Dunmore Street in Wānaka

1881

Richard Cayford opens a new hotel at Lake Hāwea outlet and named it the Panama Hotel.

Black and white photograph of a Pembroke Public library

1883

First Library building opened in Ardmore Street.

Photo: The first Public Library building opened in Ardmore Street

1884

First mustelids released in the Upper Clutha

Black and white photo of the Albion Hotel in Luggate

1884

Thomas Trevathan opened the new Albion Hotel at Luggate.

Photo: The Albion Hotel in 1910

1885

Kane family settled at Grandview and remain farming it today.

An old invitation to Pembroke Commercial Hotel

1885

Opening of Commercial Hotel at Pembroke by William Allan.

Photo: Commercial Hotel newspaper advertisement

1886

Pembroke Gaol built 1886.

1890

Henry Barker planted trees around Glendhu Bay foreshore.

1892

St Patrick’s Catholic Church, Hāwea Flat opened.

1899

Provincial boundary between Canterbury and Otago affecting the Upper Clutha northern region was finally resolved. Makarora now part of Otago.

1909

Mt Aspiring first climbed by Major Bernard Head, Alec Graham & Jack Clarke.

Photo: The climber’s horses and cart transport for equipment and food etc.

1909

Photo: Major Bernard Head and party

1910

Tourist Service Cars started operating from Mt Cook to Pembroke.

Photo: Mount Cook transport service car

1911

Golf started in Pembroke on the Commonage (now Pembroke Park).

Photo: Putting Green Wanaka Golf Course

1912

Motor cars could now cross the Crown Range.

Photo: The Crown Range

1912

Sir Percy & Lady Sargood purchase Wanaka Station. Also purchased the senior water rights to the Cardrona. He was knighted in 1935.

Photo: Sargood Homestead

1914

206 men and a nurse from the Upper Clutha served on active service during WW1. The nurse and 49 men gave their lives. Population of the Upper Clutha estimated about 900.

Photo: Staff Nurse Catherine Ann Fox – born at Cardrona, lived at Hāwea Flat before she went nursing. Drowned when the troopship “Marquette” she was on, was torpedoed.

Black and white photo of Red Bridge in Luggage

1915

Luggate Bridge (known as the Red Bridge) opened.

Photo: Red Bridge under construction in 1914

1916

Population of Hāwea Flat 216, Cardrona 111, Pembroke 113.

1921

First aircraft landing in the Upper Clutha. An Avro aircraft, piloted by Capt. Buckley, landed at Pembroke Flats. Took three single passengers on separate flights.

1922

Albert Town block sold to T Gunn: The block was subdivided in 1950/60s into sections to expand the area of Albert Town – Alison Avenue, Lagoon Avenue, Gunn Road, Dale Street etc.

1924

Mackay White Star Service Car began a passenger service between Dunedin and Pembroke.

1927

The first General Merchant store was owned by Robert McDougall Snr. He built a wooden 40’ x 20’ store on the site in 1879. This was replaced in 1904 and the business was sold to D A Jolly in 1914.

Photo: A new store built and opened in 1927

Four people dressed up for the Cabaret on Ruby Island

1927

Ruby Island Cabaret organised by Sybil and John Hunt. Hunt family started launch service on Lake Wānaka.

Photo: Cabaret attendees on Ruby Island

1927

Photo: Cabaret on Ruby Island

Lillian and two guides after the first ascent up Mount Cook

1929

Lillian Familton first woman to climb Mt Aspiring.

Photo: Lillian Familton smiling after completing the grand traverse of Aoraki (Mount Cook) with her two guides, Mick Bowie and Kurt Suter. Image from the 1964 magazine article.